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One was delighted to discover that the south Indian spice mix podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

400g starchy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 2cm cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Place in a sizable container with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.